Vaccarello Finds Inspiration in Viramontes
Anthony Vaccarello appears to be the next designer to harness the evocative works of Tony Viramontes. The 1980’s illustrator is accredited as an inspiration for such aspects of Vaccarello’s line as the statuesque patent red ruffle, which snaked down the front of a black, strapless cocktail piece as well as the inverted triangle cutout featured on the belly of a one-shouldered mini-dress. Viramontes’ name and work seems to be gaining prevalence in the world of fashion. Perhaps we can attribute this recent notoriety with the illustrator’s exhibition at 10 Corso Como in Milan. Though Vaccarello did not see that show, the artists’ influence was still unmistakably visible in the designer’s show at Paris Fashion Week.
Even in the overall contours of the show, Viramonte was promoted in a more detached fashion. We saw pronounced shoulders, pleated pants, and a series of minis leaving barely concealed bums. The line was not without its stroke of modernity, which we found in turtleneck dickeys matched with much sexier items.
Amongst all the Viramontes influence, Vaccarello’s signature held true. Miniskirts flaunted asymmetric hems and longer skirts, hip-high slits. The new touch of inspiration along with these signature particulars and a new attention to outerwear resulted in an undeniably well-rounded collection. The inclusion of shearling jackets and coats quieted the criticism Vaccarello has received in the past for a narrow point of view in his work, mini-dresses flaunting hip bones and the like. This collection is sure to appeal to a grander variety of women.
By: Brigid Crispi, For Reveler New York